Evolution of punk style

From Safety Pins to Catwalks: The Unfiltered Evolution of Punk Style

The punk movement is more than just style; It represents the aggressive, bright middle finger thrown at society. Having formed in London and New York City during the middle to late 1970's, punk was not about fashion, instead it was born out of necessity. Instead of buying expensive clothes, the financially-strapped punk rock kids would destroy whatever clothing they owned and then pin the pieces of clothing back together with safety pins and wear them as a form of protest and defiance against how society told them to live by creating their own rules about how to behave. Leather jackets and ripped jeans is what everyone wearing punk-rock inspired clothing is buying at stores nowadays, but you have to understand that true punk fashion had a lot of raw energy behind it and the stores have mostly commercialised

1. The Genesis: DIY as a Radical Act of Survival (1975–1977)

As of mid-1970s, Britain’s economy was in terrible condition. Young people were finding it hard to get jobs as everything they looked forward to from the 1960s had turned into a dull and boring world. A music genre developed out of the feeling of hopelessness that was going on at that time; the music was fast and violent and was full of anger. And fashion? The clothes people wore during that era were created out of need. since nobody had the money to buy new clothes. People would go to thrift stores to find things to wear or borrow things from their parents. The store " SEX", which was opened by Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren on King's Road, became the centre of the subculture. These clothes did not just sell; they created a way of life and a vocabulary for rebellion through their visual appearance.

The era of "deconstructionism" created designs of clothing where garments were torn in half if they became too boring and when they fell apart, they were held together by safety pins instead of being sewn. The safety pin represented this whole movement, too; safety pins were inexpensive and practical but also had a perception of being unsafe. In addition, the safety pin also provided a sort of rejective statement about the traditional relationship between women as domestic creators and their clothing. T-shirts were cut in strips and written on with markers from band names and provocative slogans; and decorated with random things found around the house. This was a totally wild and emotional reaction to the sleek and "peaceful" hippie-style fashion that came before it. You weren't trying to look good and beautiful, but rather like a cool bad-ass and scary person. It was really not about showing off, but about showing you were part of a movement that was over being told what to do. Each tear had a story behind it, and every patch was a remembrance of all the places you’ve been to and all the people you’ve hated. The experience was personal to many and was not translatable to mainstream culture at the time either. You had to *be* part of the experience to know how and why someone would wear an item that was visibly damaged, as if it had been put through a shredder!

## 2. The Fetish-Chic Integration: Transgressing Taboos

The emergence of punk rock allowed subculture to connect with the more "extreme" elements of society. Westwood and McLaren's inspiration was not just from the back of op shop stores but also the backrooms of Soho, the subculture of fetishes & BDSM. The materials appearing in the punk aesthetic include rubber and PVC, zippers, and straps. This was not about being "sexy", but more about being shockingly different than the norms of the time. People wearing bondage pants or rubber masks in public was about creating massive levels of discomfort for the average person.

This statement relates to the appropriation of the taboo nature of many subcultures which have conventionally been seen as private and sexual. Bringing such items into public spaces like supermarkets or on public transport allows the punk culture to challenge their own discomfort and society's perception of deviance through their clothing. Clothing choice here was a form of psychological warfare. Leather jackets have long been considered the wardrobe of greasers and rock 'n' rollers and were now being modified with spikes, studs and paint. The leather acted as a protective shield that protected the wearer from the society that wanted to erase them; however, wearing a leather jacket also served as a sign that one was "tough" as well as part of a group that appreciated the strange, the damaged, and all that which is not permitted. This period was arguably the riskiest for punk fashion since it did not only represent aesthetics but also a full assault on social conventions; thus the wearer would remain an outsider forever without being sorry for having them or their preferences.

## 3. Hardcore and the Transition to Utility (1980–1985)

With the 80s came a feeling for some, that the theatricality of the London scene was becoming outdated and too "fashion". In America, several cities, including those from D.C., to L.A., and N.Y., developed a new sound known as "Hardcore". These new punk bands played at much faster tempos and had more violent mosh pits than the previous punk bands. The fashion style had changed from the "fetish, provocateur" look to a more "working-class, utility" based design. The emphasis on artistry, avant-garde slashing and cutting of clothing was now a much lesser focus; the primary goal of the garments was to be able to withstand a riot.

Then came the combat boot; Dr. Martens were the ultimate boot for a number of reasons, including their durability, their affordability, and their ability to be stomped into the remnants of a chaotic concert. Jeans were worn long or cut into shorts, usually with a flannel shirt or a plain, unadorned t-shirt. Gone were the days of spiky hair and complex bondage outfits and replaced by a look that was anonymous and physically capable. It was the "Every Man" look, void of the "glamor" and "shock value" that bands like the Sex Pistols inadvertently created. You wanted it to look like you could be in a pit at a show; you wanted to be hit and fall down and pick yourself back up without your clothing disintegrating. This was an indication that the "musician" was no longer seen as a "rock star." Being involved in the punk movement throughout this period created the definition of the “Oi!” and also the “Hardcore” scenes used commonly in punk today. This included the art and designs of tattoos and shaved or messy short styles of hair, and functional clothes over other types of apparel.

  ## 4. Anarcho-Punk and Crust: Making Aesthetics Political

Alongside the progression of hardcore music, another aspect of the punk movement began to logically extend the DIY movement into political activity; Anarcho punk. While bands such as Crass might have desired to appear like other hardcore and punk bands; they desired to create an entire alternative culture which incorporated anti-capitalism, environmentalism, and animal rights into their practices. The aesthetic of anarcho-punk was also characterised by the use of military clothing as a means of opposing oppression; by using the military uniform they were turning the tools of the state against them and using them as symbols for resistance.

For the most part, the clothing was dark colored, such as black, gray, and also olive drab. Patch work became prevalent in the overall look of the clothing, including political rants, slogans against the effects of nuclear warfare, and even symbols indicating veganism.  In essence, the clothing acted as walking advertisements for whatever issues the individual supported. This clothing was completely anti-consumerist; by creating and repairing your own clothing you were actively trying not to purchase any new clothing.  By patching over and over, you ended up with layers of history accumulated on your clothing; so much so, that the original fabric was completely covered. "Crust Punk" originated from this style, where the garments were truly covered in dirt from the lifestyle of Crust Punks (things such as the road, a squat, and travel). This way of dressing valued how well a piece of clothing lasted over the fashionability of it. If you were wearing a crust jacket, most likely your life was pretty unstructured, and you were probably not working a typical job, but instead following a set of ideals that could be considered pretty extreme or out there by society in general. It still stands as an example of how extreme some forms of punk fashion are; the whole point behind wearing these clothes was that the items you were wearing represented where your beliefs were.

## 5.Commercialisation and the Modern Echo (1990 - Present)

The 1990s commercially solidified many aspects of punk, such as the 'thrift store' look caused by the rise of grunge music (Nirvana). Clothing associated with punk (flannel shirts, combat boots, and ripped jeans) became available at  mainstream retailers across the globe. Another ongoing debate is whether or not once something has been bought and sold does it still retain its Edge?

The existence of pre-distressed jackets held by designers with safety pins. The cost for this mass-produced punk combat boots was hundreds of dollars. Many consider that this type of evolution is basically a betrayal of the culture that originated from opposition to major corporations. On the other hand, some believe that this type of evolution is unavoidable. The language of punk visually was extremely influential that it will be part of the culture at large. However, the essence of punk fashion is still being created in the DIY style. While the products of mass produced punk fashion exists, so too does the spirit and story behind punk come alive through the DIY creations. The actual evolution of punk fashion isn’t out there on the catwalk; it develops right there on the floor of someone’s room where someone is cutting up a Pair of old Jeans with a pair of old Scissors because they have a point they want to make and this is their way of shouting it. When we talk about the purest form of punk fashion, it will all be about individuals making a statement about themselves and Thumb’s nose at the existing system, regardless of how the system tries to put on a fake mask to pretend that it can conform.